Forming heel-seats for boots and shoes.



S. J. WENTWORTH.

FORMING HEEL SEATS FOR BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLIOATION FILED APB-.26, 1905.

1,090,182. Patented Mar. 17, 1914.

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SAMUEL J. l/VENTWORTH, OF NEWPORT, KENTUCKY, ASSIGNOR, BY IVIESNE ASSIGN- MENTS, 'IO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATER SON, NEW JERSEY,

A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

incense.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Mar. 17, 191

Application filed April 26, 1905. Serial No. 257,488.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, SAMUEL J. VVnNT- woirrrr, a citizen of the United States, rcsiding at Newport, in the county of Camp bell and State of Kentucky, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Forming Heel-Seats for Boots and Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to method of making shoes, and in particular to a method of shaping the upper and other materials to the last.

Under modern methods of lasting the upper, lining, and counter are first assembled in proper relation on a last, and are secured, preliminarily, in assembled relation for lasting, by tacks, the upper and counter being usually drawn over at the center of the rear of the heel, and held. by a single tack at this point. The upper at the forward part of the shoe is then overlaid upon the innersole and secured in lasted position by lasting tacks. The operator then proceeds to form the heel seat by forcing down the upstanding portions of the upper materials, including the counter, about the heel which is ordinarily done by a wiper, presscr, or hammer, the treatment being applied progressively to the sections of material so as to lay the same in folds upon the innersole, and a tack being driven to secure each fold, as the work progresses. By such old method wrinkles are formed between the separate folds which are often found to extend beyond the heel seat, and along the sides and back of the shoe, and present an unsightly appearance in the finished shoe. In the use of hammers and other tools as heretofore employed for conforming the upper to the marginal portion of the last, either as an incident to the lasting operation, or when following such operation, in order to flatten down and shape the upper to the last the usual practice has been either to beat in a downward direction, or to subject the upper to a series of consccutively applied glancing blows which first heat, and then rub the stock.

In order to properly shape the marginal portion of the upper to the last, and to effectively turn over and lay upon the last the upstanding upper materials so as to prevent the formation of wrinkles of a character to mar the appearance of the shoe, I have discovered that such materials should be subjected to a combined inward rubbing and beating action by a suitable tool or instrum entality which will operate upon the marginal portion of the upper in such manner as to first draw it inward upon the last, and then beat or hammer it in conformity with the shape of the edge of the last. It has been found in practice that the effect of such combined rubbing and beating action is to stretch the engaged stock to a marked degree, and particularly at its surface, and with light stock this action is liable to draw the upper out of place while that degree of beating is being eil'ectcd which is required to shape the upper on the heel seat. In working on heavier stock, which usually re quires still more severe beating, the surface stretching of the upper causes it to curl or spring up, for which reasons a hammer blow, as distinguished from a combined rubbing and beating action on the stock as above described, was considered necessary for many classes of work prior to this invention. I have discovered that by applying to the portions of upper engaged by the rubbing and beating instrumentality a suitable tempering agent, as for example, oil, or para'l'lin, the above described method of treatment can be applied to practically all kinds of stock. The paraffin or oil when so applied is worked into the stock preferably in a warm state because of the friction heat developed by the tool employed in the rubbing and beating action, and this softens or tempers the stock so that it more readily assumes the shape of the last and as the paraffin or oil cools and stiilens it tends to prevent displacement of the stock by reaction. I consider the above-described procedure, together with the use of a tempering agent of the character referred to, an important feature of my invention.

lVhile the above referred to method of treating the marginal portions of an upper to shape it to the last may be applied with advantage at any point around the shoe, it has been found to be particularly advantageous when practised at the heel end of the shoe, where by reason of the increased thickness of materials due to the presence of the counter it is especially dillicult to turn over upon the last and level the material. I have discovered that in order to obtain the best results when operating at the heel end more conformable to the edge of of the last the upper should be subjected to a drawing or rubbing action in a direction inward over the heel seat of the shoe from op posite sides simultaneously,'in lines directed obliquely forwardly and inwardly, and then to a beating action to force the overdrawn stock down upon the heel, such drawing and beating action being preferably applied to the upper progressively from the rear end toward the breast of the heel. By such mode of treatment the lines of force applied in the operation of drawing the upper over the edge of the last converge toward the breast of the heel, and follow the natural direction of the folds or creases in the stock, so that the operation of beating down the stock to set the folds or crimps will effect substantial reduction in the thickness of the materials, and hence produce a more flattened heel seat than has been heretofore attainable by the ordinary methods employed for tl is purpose. I regard such method of operation as a very important feature of my invention, and while the same is desirable when applied to a shoe having a flanged counter in order to more effectually shape the upper margin and counter flange to the last bottom and make a good heel seat, it is of especial advantage when practised upon a shoevhaving a straight counter, and where all of the upper materials at the heel are upstanding and require to be turned over upon, and hammered down in close conformity with the edge of the last. In practising such method upon shoes in this condition, it has been found of great advantage to apply a lubricating or tempering agent, such as oil or paraffin, as heretofore referred to, at the point of engagement of the rubbing and beating tool employed and the upper, in o der to suitably reduce the extent of the stretching of the upper wiich would otherwise be produced as an incident to the rubbing action, and also to render the stock the last to w iich it is being shaped. Preferably as a preliminary operation to the described overdrawing and beating action when applied at the heel end of a shoe, the upper is pulled forwardly, which causes it to set bet ter around the heel end. While in this condition the upper may be fastened as by the toe tack before mentioned or by fasteners driven on each side of the shoe to maintain it under tension during the forward drawing and rubbing action. By the forwardly drawing action the edge of the heel seat of the upper is worked forwardly into position to lie smoothly into the in-curve of the shank where it is otherwise liable to be tight.

l vhile the method as above referred to may be carried out by any suitable form of hand tool when properly manipulated, or by a properly constructed machine, a preferred means for carrying it into effect is illusl igure 1 represents a perspective view of a shoe which has been lasted about the lOIG'.

part and shank, although the shoe might equally well have been merely pulled over and not yet lasted at the forepart, and has the upper materials at the heel, including a straight counter, upstanding and in the position they occupy prior to the formation of the heel seat; Fig. 2 shows in side elevation a power-driven tool by which the method herein described may be practised; and Fig.

3 is a plan view of the rear position of a lasted shoe with the heel seat finished.

Referring first to Fig. 2, which shows a rotatable gathering, smoothing, and beating tool corresponding to that disclosed in the Letters Patent before referred to, a suitable frame or support, as shown, carries bearings for a shaft H, upon which is a driving pulley I, for receiving power through a belt, from a suitable source. The shaft H also carries the tool G, which comprises two parallel series of beating irons a, b, which have their adjacent edges arranged at an inclination to the axis of the tool, and convergent relative to each other. These irons are yieldably supported from the shaft H, and their construction and arrangement adapts them to successively draw together and lay the upper material over upon the last, beat it down in position, and shape it to the last bottom. While this tool constitutes the preferred means which I employ in the performance of the present method of forn'iing heel seats, it is to be understood that no limitation to the use of this particular tool is intended as any other tool or device which would operate in such manner as to uniformly and continuously gather, press, shape and hammer into position the upper and other materials in the manner described herein, may be employed in lieu of such tool; and, while a rotating tool is advantageous because of the rapidity with which the blows can be delivered, it is obvious that the invention can be practised with the aid of a properly shaped hand tool, such as a hammer in the hands of the operator.

In carrying into effect the principles of the present invention in the formation of a heel seat, an upper A, lining a and counter d are assembled in proper relation about a last, having thereon an insole B, and the upper is preferably pulled in a forward direction, or

toward the toe end of the last, in order to fit the said materials snugly about the heel and along the sides. The marginal portion of the upper may then be overlaid upon the insole at the shank and fore part, and secured in lasted position at these points by tacks D, and at the forward ends of the counter by the tacks f and g, leaving upstanding those portions of the upper at the heel end, as represented by the letter E in Fig. 1, which are to be subsequently drawn over, and laid upon the insole to form the heel seat. The operator then takes the shoe in hi hand and presents, preferably, the rear portion of the heel to the rapidly rotating tool G, so that the median line of the shoe coincides substantially with the median line of the tool, and the yieldable beating irons a, b, which are arranged to operate upon the marginal portions of the upper materials at both sides of the shoe simultaneously, first successively turn over the upper, counter and lining and smoothly lay the materials upon the innersole by a series of wiping strokes applied along converging lines which extend from the shoe margin toward the median line of the shoe and progress along both sides toward the toe, and then beat down such overlaid material upon the insole, thereby molding such upper materials snugly to the bottom and adjacent sides of the last. As those portions of the in argin of the upper forward of the heel and which lie along the shank and forepart of the shoe from the points where the tacks f, 9, a re driven are ordinarily more elastic than the portion extending around the heel, it is preferred to last in and secure by tacks D, f and y, the shank and fore part before forming the heel seat. It is to be understood, however, that the invention is not limited to this order of procedure, as if so desired the h el seat may first be formed, and thereafter the shoe lasted at the shank and fore part.

it has been found to be highly desirable to apply to the stock either through the tool, or by a brush or other means, a suitable tempering agent, such as oil or paraffin, which is work-ed into the stock through the rubbing and beating action of the tool. This acts to soften the leather and renders it so pliable that when it is subjected to the described bending and beating operations it will readily yield to the shaping action of the tool or instrumentality employed and hence may be molded to the adjacent side and bottom portions of the last in a very superior manner. In the case of paraffin, also, it has been found that when applied to the stock, either before the described operation, or during such operation through the tool employed, the heat generated by the frictional engagement of the tool with the stock causes the paraffin to melt and enter the pores of the leather which not only facilitates the shaping of the upper to the last by the tool, but also tends to hold the upper to such shape when the paraflin cools and stitfens.

I have found by experience, that by the method herein described of operating upon shoes 1 obtain decidedly improved results in the fitting of the margin of the upper, lining, and counter to the adjacent portions of the side and bottom of the last, and at the same time I effect a material saving in the cost and labor of fori'ning heel seats, as compared with the methods of forming heel seats as heretofore practised. I have also found that under the present method the leather, when stretched over the edges of the last and shaped thereto, has a much smaller number of overlaln ed plaits or folds at the heel or too portion of the shoe, than is the case under former methods. This results in a reduction of the tendency to produce ex tensions of the creased portions of the leather into the sides of the shoe where they would be visible and tend to mar the appearance of the shoe, and leaves the margin around the heel seat smooth and without wrinkles, thereby making an improved lit to the last of all of that portion of the upper which is adjacent to the heel seat.

Having described my invention, I claim:-

1. That improvement in method of making shoes which consists in pulling an upper forwardly to set it around the heel end of a last and, while maintaining it in this condition, drawing the upper over and upon the heel seat of the shoe simultaneously from opposite sides thereof and progressively on each side in lines directed obliquely forwardl y and inwardly and beating such overdrawn portion of the upper down upon the heel seat progressively from the rear end to ward the breast of the heel.

2. That imprmement in method of making shoes which consists in pulling an upper forwardly to set it around the heel end of a last, fastening it on each side of the shoe to n'iaintain it in this condition, then drawing the upper over the heel seat of the shoe progressively from the rear end of the heel forwardly in lines oblique to the edge of the heel seat and which converge toward the breast of the heel and beating each portion of the upper down upon the heel seat innnediately follmving the overdrawing thereof.

3. That improvement in method of making shoes which consists in pulling over an upper forwardly to conform its rear portion to the end and side faces and the edge of the heel portion of the last and, while n'laintaining it in this condition, drawing the upper inwardly over the heel seat of the shoe from opposite sides in lines converging toward the breast of the heel and, while maintaining the drawing strain, beating the successively overdrawn portions of the upper downwardly to conform the upper to the heel seat face of the last.

4. That improvement in method of making shoes which onsists in pulling an upper forwardly to conform it to the heel end of the last and, while maintaining it in this condition, drawing the upper over the heel seat from opposite sides obliquely inwardly and forwardly with a rubbing and beating action and reducing the extent of the stretching of the engaged upper which would otherwise be produced as an incident to the rubbing action by applying a lubricant to the work.

5. That improvement in method of making shoes which consists in pulling an upper forwardly to conform it to the heel end of the last and, while maintaining it in this condition, drawing the upper obliquely inwardly and forwardly over the heel seat from opposite sides of the shoe with a rubbing and beating action and, simultaneously with said rubbing and beating operation, working into the upper of the heel seat a tempering agent that will facilitate the permanent shaping of the upper to the heel seat of the last.

6. That improvement in method of making shoes which consists in subjecting the marginal portion of the upper to a rubbing and then a beating action to shape it to the last and applying to the surface of the engaged portions of the upper an agent to reduce the normal surface-stretching effected by and during the rubbing and beating action which is required for shaping the upper,

7 That improvement in method of making shoes which consists in subjecting the marginal portion of the upper to an inward rubbing and then a beating action to shape it to the last and applying and working into the upper leather by such action an oleaginous tempering agent.

8. That improvement in method of making shoes which consists in rubbing and beating down the material forming the heel seat by commencing this operation at the rear end of the heel and progressively shaping both sides of the heel seat at the same time by sliding blows directed obliquely inwardly and forwardly from opposite sides of the shoe, which force said material into engagement with its support.

9. That improvement in method of making shoes which consists in placing a counter and an upper around the heel portion of a last with the marginal edge of the upper upstanding, then commencing with the rear end of the heel and turning said edge inwardly and forwardly simultaneously from opposite sides of the heel and progressively on opposite sides thereof in uniformly converging lines toward the heel breast and at the same time applying to the top face of the upper a tempering agent, beating the upper down into lasted position upon the heel seat of the shoe, and thereby working the tempering agent into the upper.

10. That improvement in. method of making shoes which consists in placing a counter and an upper around the heel portion of a last with the marginal edge of the upper upstanding, then commencing at the rear end of the heel and turning said "edge inwardly and forwardly from opposite sides of the shoe in inwardly converging lines toward the breast, and immediately thereafter beating the overturned upper into lasted position upon the heel seat of the shoe.

11. That improvement in method of making shoes which consists in placing an upper in position on a last, and drawing the upper inwardly over the heel seat from opposite sides on lines converging toward the breast of the heel and immediately thereafter beating the successively overdrawn portions of the upper downwardly to conform the upper to the heel seat face of the last.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand.

SAMUEL J. WENTl VURTH.

lVitnesses OLIVER B. KAJsER, LUIsE BECK.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Gommiseiener of Patents, Washington, D. C. 

